How a larger girth helps avoiding fires – a cautionary tale about power cables

Here are three power cables. Do you see what’s different between them? Hint: One of them is a serious fire hazard.

I don’t know about you, but I have a box full of computer cables that I amassed over the years, and whenever I need a cable, I grab one from the box. There are plenty of power cables in that box, and I never thought twice about which one to use for a PC. Until one episode about two years back. The PC that I was using was a real high end killer machine – I don’t remember the exact specs, but I know that it was a $1000 Intel CPU, so I believe it was a Core i7 Extreme, paired with a high end Geforce card (I believe a GTX 660 or 680). I was playing a game, when suddenly I heard a popping noise and saw sparks falling to the ground. Like, literally sparks. At first I thought that the power supply blew up and tried a new one. After some more trial and error, we finally found out that is was the power cable that melted and sparked.

I had never seen that happen before. I knew that the super high end power supplies had a different connector (IEC 60320 C19 instead of C13) – but I didn’t think that there was any difference for regular power supplies.

Turns out that the thickness of the wires inside the cable matters a lot. This makes sense: Electricity going through a wire heats the wire up – the more power, the warmer it gets. If the wire isn’t thick enough, it will literally melt and can then cause a short, or like in my case, sparks (and potentially a fire). One of the standards used for wire thickness is called the American wire gauge, or AWG for short – you may have seen this used for speaker wire. A cable that you buy will have a number – like 18 AWG – which describes the thickness. Lower numbers are thicker, so a 14 AWG wire is thicker than an 18 AWG wire (do note that there is a difference between a wire and a cable – a cable is one or more wires plus insulation and connectors).

In the above picture, there are 14, 16 and 18 AWG cables with C13 connectors shown. Monitors tend to ship with 18 AWG cables, which is why I have a bunch of them. But 18 AWG power cables are not suitable for powerful PCs. They might be suitable for lower end PCs (that can safely run on a 450W or less power supply), but even a single 95W CPU and 8-Pin powered Graphics Card (like a GTX 1080) might draw too much power for the cable – a fire hazard waiting to happen. The cables will have their gauge written on them, or etched (which is harder to read).

Now, before you go and buy a bunch of 14 AWG power cables, do note that the thicker a wire is, the stiffer it is. 14 AWG cables are generally very stiff, so if the PC is close to a wall or the cable needs to make a bend for another reason, you might be putting a lot of force on the power supply connector. In general, 16 AWG should be perfectly fine to at least 850W – possibly more.

The strife for a great whitebox server case

Update 2017-07-25: I found a case, see at the bottom.

My home setup is a bit of a mess. That’s mainly because I haven’t properly planned out my needs, and now I have a Simple File Server that doesn’t accommodate my future growth, an old server to run VMs on, and some random assortment of hardware to do backups on.

So, I’m now making a list of my actual needs to build one new server to rule them all, sometime in 2018. The list of needs is fairly short:

  • Enough CPU Power to run about 6 VMs
  • Space for an ATX motherboard, to not limit options even if I end up with a Micro ATX board
  • Enough disk space for my stuff
  • Redundancy/Fault Tolerance for my disks
  • Ability to do proper backups, both to an on-site and an off-site medium
  • Low Energy Use

Most of these requirements are fairly straight forward: For the CPU, a Xeon D-1541 (e.g., on a Supermicro X10SDV-TLN4F-O) or a Ryzen 7 PRO 1700 will do fine. For the hard drive, using my existing WD Red 3.5″ drives gives me the storage. After considering RAID-5, I’m gonna pick up a LSI Logic SAS 9211-8I controller to do RAID 1E instead, with RAID 10 being a future option.

The real question is though: Where to put all that stuff? That led me down to the rabbit hole of finding a server case. The needs seemed simple:

  • Space for at least 4x 3.5″ drives (ideally 8) and 2x 2.5″ drives (ideally 4)
  • Power Supply on top, so I don’t have to worry about overheating if putting the PC on the floor
  • Don’t look like crap. If possible, no Window, no lit fans, not designed like 1960’s Russian military hardware
  • Absolutely no tempered glass. If I can’t avoid a window, it needs to be plastic/plexiglass.
  • Want: Ability to hot swap at least some of the drives, so some backplane
  • Ideally $150 or less

Now, the “don’t look like crap” part is, of course, highly subjective. Still, I’d definitely prefer the look of a Corsair Carbide 100R over their Graphite 780T. The power supply positioning changed from the top to the bottom in recent years. This is because a modern CPU and GPU produce a lot of heat, so the old way of “have the PSU suck out the heat” no longer works well. Also, water cooling isn’t super-niche anymore, so radiator space is needed.

I’d like to hotswap drives, so one of my ideas was to look at some rackmountable case, but in that price range, there isn’t much. I found the Norco RPC-4308 which would be pretty awesome, if not for a small detail: The power connector on the SATA Backplane is a 4-Pin Molex connector. Now, while there is a problem with Molex to SATA Power Adapters catching fire, this is not a concern here as the power is properly routed through the backplane. No, my concern is that Molex Power is not SATA compliant. SATA Power is a 15-Pin connector:

Now, the fact that there are 3 pins each for 5V and 12V isn’t so much a problem (that’s more a side effect of how thin the pins are and concerns sending enough current over one of them). The problem is rather that some parts are completely missing. There’s no 3.3V power, no staggered spinup and no Power Disable with a Molex adapter. Arguably, 3.3V isn’t needed by most drives, and power disable is almost an anti-feature outside the data center. Still, the question is: Why invest into a system that isn’t fully compliant?

I haven’t seen any other rackmount cases with hotswap trays that fit the price range. There is a tower case – Silverstone CS380 – that looks awesome, but also suffers from the Molex power. Next up was looking at 5.25″ cages that hold up to five 3.5″ drives. There are some nicely priced and not too shabby looking ones out there (e.g., Rosewill’s RSV-SATA-Cage-34, but once again, buyer beware: Molex power, so that’s a no for me. I am currently looking at Silverstone’s FS303, FS304 or FS305. I’m not sure if putting five 3.5″ drives in three 5.25″ slot is a bit too closely packed, even with the low-power WD Red drives. But even ignoring the FS305, I could get six drives in four slots, or four drives in three slots, so that’s pretty good.

This now leads to the next problem: Cases with 5.25″ slots are becoming rarer and rarer. This makes sense, since many people don’t even have optical drives anymore, and those that do only need one bay. I need at least four, better five or six. So, how many PC Cases are there that…

  • Have four to six 5.25″ bays
  • Have the power supply on top
  • Don’t look like crap
  • Don’t cost more than about $150
  • Can fit an ATX mainboard

Spoiler warning: Almost none. I spent quite a bit of time looking through the offerings on Amazon and Newegg and on many manufacturers websites, and it seems that modern day gamer-cases and really cheap mini tower cases have completely replaced everything else on the market. Now, there are a few cases for Mini ITX boards that are interesting, like the Silverstone DS380, which seems like a popular NAS case these days. Still, my goal is to not compromise unless I really have to.

I’m still researching, but here’s my current shortlist:

  • Lian Li PC-8N – discontinued, but still available on Newegg for about $100. 4x 5.25″ bays, PSU on top
  • Antec NSK4100 – discontinued, but still available on Newegg for about $50. 3x 5.25″ bays, PSU on top
  • Corsair Carbide 200R – about $65, my choice for my own PC, 3x 5.25″ bay, PSU at bottom
  • Rosewill Legacy QT01 – about $100, 3x 5.25″ bay, bottom PSU
  • Fractal Design R5 – about $120, gorgeous case, but only 2x 5.25″ bays, so I’d have to seriously consider if I really want hotswap
  • Cooler Master N400 – about $60, only 2x 5.25″ bays and bottom PSU, but looks pretty nice, like a workstation
  • Cooler Master CMP350 – about $85, 4x 5.25″ bays, top mounted PSU, incl. 500W PSU, seems discontinued
  • APEVIA X-Cruiser3 – about $70, 5x 5.25″ bays(!), and the design should be good for some social media points
  • Buying something used – especially old tower servers or workstations. Don’t really want to do that, I’ve learned that name-brand complete systems usually mean some compromises in case design that I don’t like

If I go with a case that has the PSU at the bottom, I’d have to consider a PSU that has the fan in the back or can be mounted with the fan pointing into the case. There aren’t many PSUs with a fan in the back left, one option is the Antec EA-380D Green (which has 5x SATA connectors).

It definitely seems harder than it should be to build a whitebox server these days than it used to. Sure, the components are cheaper and more powerful than ever, but it seems that cases have stopped serving the market. I can see why people would rather buy a Synology NAS, or get some old rackmount server for cheap (Dell’s R720 should really come down in price now as thousands are being replaced), or don’t care about hotswapping, but still, it feels like the PC case market has regressed since the legendary Chieftec Dragon (which were also sold by Antec under the SX name) were every enthusiasts choice.

Maybe it’s indeed a sign of the times, where the real innovation happens in the Mini-ITX and gaming spaces, while everything else becomes a specialized device offered by someone.

Update 2017-07-25: I found a Thermaltake Urban S41, which hits most of the things I want. It looks nice and clean, it has 4x 5.25″ bays, 5x internal 3.5″ bays, and a even a temporary hotswap bay on top. There is plenty of cooling, with a 200m fan on top, 120mm fans in the front and back, and an optional 120mm fan at the bottom. The Power Supply is mounted at the bottom, but the case actually has feet that elevate it quite a bit above the floor. Of course, like all nice tower server cases, it is discontinued, but Amazon still had a few for $100.

I’ll add an ICY DOCK FatCage MB153SP-B, which houses 3x 3.5″ SATA drives in 2x 5.25″ slots. I might either add another one of those, but I’m also seriously considering 2.5″ Seagate BarraCuda drives. They go up to 5 TB on 2.5″ (at 15mm height), for a similar price as 3.5″ IronWolf/WD Red. I’m not sure if using a non-NAS drive is a good idea, but then, vibration/heat/power usage isn’t really a concern with these drives. In that case, I’d likely use an ICY Dock ToughArmor MB994SP-4S for 4x 2.5″ in 1x 5.25″, but it’ll be a while before I need to think about that. Who knows, maybe by then there will be 2.5″ Seagate IronWolf, or a 2.5″ WD Red bigger than 1 TB (I run two of their WD10JFCX in a RAID-1 currently).

A failed attempt of using a Tinkerboard or Raspberry Pi as a Backup Server

In my earlier post about my new file server, I talked about setting up a backup strategy. Now, my first attempt was to use a ASUS Tinkerboard or Raspberry Pi 3. This attempt failed, and I’d like to go over why, so that future readers don’t make the same mistake.

The Theory: Desired Setup

Here’s my desired backup strategy:

As you see, the Tinker Board was supposed to be the local backup server, that is, the server that holds backups of all the main data. From there, I want to upload to Backblaze’s B2 service.

Bottleneck 1: Multi-Core CPUs don’t really matter for SFTP

My initial plan was to use the SSH File Transfer Protocol (SFTP). After all, the Tinker Board with its 1.8 GHz Quad Core CPU should do well, right? No, not really. The thing is that SFTP doesn’t seem to parallelize well – it uses one Core to the max, and no other.

Whether this is a limitation of the protocol, or a limit of OpenSSH, I don’t know, but I just couldn’t get good speed over SFTP.

Bottleneck 2: USB 2.0 is just not very fast

Now, this one is a bit of a “well, duh!” issue, but I initially didn’t really consider that USB 2.0 is capped at a theoretical max of 480 MBit/s, which is 60 MB/s. So even after switching from SFTP down to SMB or unencrypted FTP, I wasn’t reaching more than about 45 MB/s, even though the hard drive itself can do much more. This would mainly be a problem for the initial backup (~300 GB) and for restores though.

Bottleneck 3 (Raspberry Pi only): Slow Ethernet

On the Raspberry Pi, the Ethernet is only 100 MBit/s, and connected via USB, thus sharing bandwidth. On the ASUS Tinker Board, the Ethernet is a dedicated Gigabit Ethernet controller, and thus doesn’t share bandwidth.

A lot of boxes and cables, for a lot of money

This one is subjective, but my setup was 1 ASUS Tinkerboard with Power Supply, connecting to a USB Hard Drive which also has its own power supply. It looked messy, and also wasn’t really cheap. For $102 ($60 Tinker Board, $14 Case with Fan, $8 Power Supply and $20 USB Drive Case), it’s cheaper than most anything else. For example, a $55 Board with 10W CPU, $40 case, $20 Power Supply and $23 RAM would’ve been $140, but likely much faster.

Going with a Mini-ITX instead

I’ll have a bigger blog post about the actual implementation later, but in the end I re-used my previous Mini-ITX box which has proper SATA for full speed hard drives and performs much better.

I do want to say that both the Raspberry Pi 3 and the ASUS Tinker Board are awesome little boards – especially the Tinker Board impressed me. But in this case, I tried to use them for something they are just not good at, and ended up wasting a bunch of time and money.

Dell PowerEdge T30 – My 2017 File Server

It’s been about 18 Months since I build a NAS for my own use and over time, my requirements have changed drastically. For one, I went with Windows instead of OpenBSD because I wanted to run some Windows-only software, and because NTFS works for backing up other NTFS Volumes, like my Home PCs. I’ve been using Backup4All Pro to backup the server to another external storage (a 3 TB Apple Time Capsule), including AES-256 Encryption.

There were 3 major issues with the hardware in my existing NAS:

  1. The case only fits 3 Hard Drives (2x 2.5″ and 1x 3.5″), and I need some more space
  2. The CPU struggles with compression and encryption
  3. The RAM is not ECC

Number 1 would’ve been an easy fix, just get a different case, but – despite varying opinions – I want ECC RAM in my file server, and that required a new mainboard & CPU.

ECC RAM in the Intel world requires a workstation chipset (like the C232 or C236) and ECC supporting CPU, which would be a Pentium or Xeon. The Core i3/i5/i7 CPUs do not support ECC even though the lowly Pentium does, presumably to not cannibalize the Xeon E3 market. After all, the only real difference between a Xeon E3 and a Core i7 is ECC RAM support.

After looking around and pricing a CPU + Mainboard + ECC RAM Combo, I stumbled upon the Dell PowerEdge T30 tower server, which at least right now is on sale for $199 for the Pentium G4400/4GB ECC and $349 for the Xeon E3-1225 v5/8 GB non-ECC version, with coupon codes 199T30 and 349T30 (Update: These seem expired now). $199 definitely beats anything I can price together for a Case + Board + CPU + ECC RAM, so I ended up buying one as my new file server.

The Specs

  • Intel Pentium G4400 CPU (2x 3.3 GHz Skylake, 3 MB Cache, 54W TDP, No Hyperthreading)
  • 1x 4 GB DDR4-2133 ECC RAM – there are 4 slots, supporting a maximum of 64 GB. Dual-Channel, so with only 1 DIMM it’s a bit of a waste.
  • 1 TB 7200rpm SATA Hard Disk (mine is a Toshiba DT01ACA100, manufactured October 2016, 512 emulated sectors, 32 MB Cache)
  • Intel C236 Chipset Main Board
  • Front: 2x USB 3.0, 2x USB 2.0, Sound
  • Back: 4x USB 3.0, Sound, HDMI, 2x DisplayPort, PS/2 Mouse and Keyboard, and Gigabit Intel I219-LM Ethernet
  • Slots: 1x PCI Express 3.0 x16, 2x PCI Express 3.0 x4 Slots, and 1 old-school 32-Bit 33 MHz PCI slot
  • Undocumented M.2 2280 SSD Slot – requires PCI Express M.2 SSD, can’t use SATA/AHCI.
  • 290 Watt Power Supply
  • No Remote Management, at least on the Pentium (no DRAC either), although the Xeon CPU would support Intel AMT 11.0
  • No Operating System

I ended up buying a few extra things:

  • Kingston KTD-PE421E/4G – 4 GB DDR4-2133 ECC RAM, intended for the PowerEdge T30 (Kingston’s compatibility list) – $45
  • IO Crest 2 Port SATA III PCI-Express x1 Card (SY-PEX40039) with ASM1061 chipset – to add 2 more SATA Ports. No fancy RAID Controller needed here. – $15
  • SATA Power Splitter Cable – power those two extra SATA drives since I don’t have the official Dell cable. – $5
  • Samsung PM951 128 GB NVMe SSD – after discovering the undocumented M.2 SSD Slot. – $75

So that’s an extra $140 for a $199 server, but I couldn’t have built anything better for $340.

Storage Options

The server supports up to 6 hard drives, with 4x 3.5″ and 2x 2.5″ slots. Instead of 2x 2.5″ drives, a slim laptop optical drive can be installed. However, there are only 4 SATA ports on the mainboard (Intel RST, supports RAID), and by default only power cables for 4 drives as well (2 for the bottom, 2 for the top). That’s why I ended up buying a cheap 2-Port SATA controller and a SATA power splitter cable.

If you want to run 6 drives, consider the official Dell cable:

512-byte sectors

One interesting tidbit is that the hard drive is using 512e sectors, that means that even though internally the drive uses 4K Advanced Format, the system actually sees a drive with old-school 512 Byte Sectors. This can help with compatibility issues, because some systems (e.g., VMWare ESXi/vSphere) don’t support 4K Sector drives.

Since Dell doesn’t specify the type of drive you get, there might be other drives as well, but I think that 512e sectors makes sense for a server that’s without an operating system.

Since I don’t run VMWare and since my other data drives are 4K Sectors, the OS Drive being 512e doesn’t matter to me.

The M.2 Slot

There is an undocumented M.2 Slot on the mainboard. Actually, there are two, one in the rear of the case that’s not actually provisioned (no slot on the board, but the soldering points are there) and one M.2 Slot in the bottom right under the RAMs, that is actually provisioned and working – until BIOS 1.0.3 (and 1.0.5 as well).

I get 900 MB/s reading from the 128 GB Samsung PM951, and it’s possible to boot off it. at least until BIOS 1.0.2, which is what I’m running. I reached out to Dell to ask them to reconsider disabling the slot – it’s undocumented, but it works. I don’t know if the comparatively low speed is because the PM951 is slow or if the M.2 Slot is only connected to 2 PCIe Lanes, but I’d take a 2-Lane M.2 slot over no slot.

Update July 2017: BIOS 1.0.5 fixed the Intel Management Engine remote exploit, which you absolutely must have if you have a Xeon. But that also means no M.2 Slot, and it’s highly unlikely that Dell will enable it back.

Drive Setup and Backup Strategy

  • 1 TB Toshiba DT01ACA100 – Intel RST – OS Drive, Windows Server 2012 R2 Standard
  • 2x 1 TB 2.5″ WD Red WD10JFCX – RAID 1 on Intel RST – Important Data like documents, photos and emails – stuff I can’t get back
  • 4 TB WD Red WD40EFRX – Intel RST – Big Stuff like Videos, Installers and just a giant grabbag of files that I can get back or afford to lose
  • 3 TB WD Red WD30EFRX – ASM1061 – Backups from my local machines
  • 128 GB Samsung PM961 – M.2 Slot – Not in use yet, didn’t want to waste it on the OS, but keep if I need super-fast storage (e.g., upgrade to 10 GBit Network and use as iSCSI Target)

Backup strategy

I haven’t set it all up yet, but the idea is to have a multi-stage backup. First off, local machines on my network just store files on the server or regularly backup onto the 3 TB drives using Windows Backup. For the data on the Server, I use Backup4All Pro to create an AES-encrypted backup to an external drive. For the longest time, this used to be an Apple Time Capsule, but that thing only supports SMB1, which is horribly broken and insecure, so that’s no longer an option. Since I still have my old server (it’s becoming a service box since I want to keep this file server here as clean as possible), I think I’m going to move the drive from the Time Capsule into it.

That gives me several levels of protection locally, but I’m also planning to archive to Amazon Glacier. Backup4All supports backing up to Amazon S3, and it’s possible to have S3 archive to Glacier, which makes this a good option. If you set the “Transition to Glacier” value to 0, it immediately goes to Glacier and no S3 storage fees apply – only transfer fees.

Once the entire Backup system is up and running, I’ll create a separate post.

Future Upgrade-ability

Now, there are some thing to be aware of. First off, the 290W power supply has exactly two power cables, which both go into the mainboard. From the mainboard, there are exactly 4 SATA Power Connectors (unless you order the SATA Power Extension for an extra $20), which is exactly what you need for the 4 SATA ports on the mainboard.

Extensibility is really limited: If you were thinking of adding a powerful GPU, you won’t have the 6 pin connector to drive it. If you want to add more hard drives (the case holds 4x 3.5″ and 2x 2.5″ drives), you’ll need either Dell’s SATA Power Extension (which they don’t seem to sell separately) or a third party one that hopefully doesn’t catch fire.

The C236 chipset supports Kaby Lake, so it should be possible to e.g., upgrade to a Pentium G4600 and get HyperThreading, or to a Skylake-based or Kaby Lake-based Xeon E3, assuming Dell doesn’t have any weird BIOS limits in place.

Memory-wise, there are 4 DIMM slots in 2 Channels, which currently mean up to 64 GB DDR4 RAM.


It’s an entry-level server. It was reasonably priced, has ECC RAM, is really quiet, and does what I need. I like it.

More Pictures (click to enlarge)

Dell XPS 15 9550 (2016), 6 weeks in

One of the perks of working for Stack Overflow is that you get to choose your own work computer. I decided to go with a 2016 Dell XPS 15 (9550) (not to be confused with the earlier XPS 15, which had the model number 9530) and settled on this configuration:

Dell XPS 15 9550

One of the big selling features of the XPS 15 is a gorgeous 4K (3840×2160) display – why didn’t I get that one? Simple: At 15″, I’d have to use Windows display scaling to make stuff not too tiny. Display scaling is a lot better in Windows 10 than it was in 7 or 8, but it’s still not great. I have used display scaling on Mac OS X, and on Windows it’s still just a giant crutch. So I decided on the normal 1080p display, and I like it a lot. It’s bright, it’s IPS and thus doesn’t suffer from colors being all weird when viewed from the side, and it doesn’t kill the battery nearly as much as the 4K screen.

At home, I’m also running two 2560×1440 displays (One Dell U2715H connected via a USB-C-to-DisplayPort adapter, and one Dell U2515H connected via HDMI).

The external display situation is a bit weird at the moment (Late July 2016). The XPS 15 has a Thunderbolt port, so supporting 2x 4K monitors at 60Hz each should be possible using the TB15 thunderbolt dock. The problem is that the Thunderbolt dock doesn’t work properly and is currently not sold (Dell might have a fix sometime in August). There have been 3 or 4 Thunderbolt BIOS updates over the last few weeks, but as it stands right now, unless you have a Thunderbolt display the port doesn’t do much.

It can be used as a normal USB-C port and drive a single 4K screen at 60 Hz with the DisplayPort adapter cable, and that works fine. Dell does have a USB-C dock (Dell WD15) which has HDMI and Display Port, but unlike the built-in HDMI port, it cannot drive a 2560×1440 screen over HDMI.

That basically means that unless you’re only using 1080p screens, there isn’t a good dock out there and you’re better off connecting external screens directly to the laptop. I have tried daisy chaining the two 2560×1440 displays (2nd display into 1st using display port cable, 1st into USB-C port using DP-USBC cable) and that worked fine

The keyboard is surprisingly good. It’s still a laptop keyboard, but it’s normal sized keys with enough travel to not feel strange. Because it’s a 15″ laptop and the keyboard is towards the screen though, my arm is resting on the bottom edge of the laptop which isn’t the most comfortable position. It’s one of the sacrifices to be made. The covering is some rubbery material that feels good, but finger-stains are readily visible.

The touchpad is pretty good, as close to a Macbook touchpad as I’ve encountered so far, although it doesn’t have the glass cover that makes the Macbook feel frictionless. It was definitely one of the reasons I wanted a Dell XPS laptop, because the touchpad is one of the main reasons to buy an Apple laptop, and I feel that there’s no need to regret not getting one.

The battery runtime is pretty good. There are two Battery choices: a 56 WHr and an 84 WHr. The battery situation is a bit interesting: Basically the lower-end models come with a 2.5″ S-ATA hard drive and a 32 GB M.2 SSD:


The higher-end models come with only a M.2 SSD and either a 56 or 84 WHr battery. In case of the 84 WHr battery, it takes up the space that the 2.5″ hard drive would take, and so it’s not possible to add an additional 2.5″ hard drive to an XPS 15 with a 84 WHr battery (in case you were thinking of adding a second hard drive for data).

In theory, it is possible to add a 2.5″ drive to a model with the 56 WHr battery, but no mounting hardware is included and it seems Dell doesn’t sell it individually. So if you’re really thinking of putting in two hard drives (say, a dream configuration of a 1 TB Samsung SM961 and a 4 TB Samsung 850 EVO), you’d have to buy the XPS 15 in a configuration that includes a hard drive and swap them out.

Battery runtime with the 84 WHr battery is pretty good – Dell makes some lofty claims of 17 hour runtime that of course aren’t reached in real world use, but I get at least 6 hours out if my normal use (WiFi enabled, nothing connected to USB, display to about 60% brightness, Visual Studio, SQL Server, IIS, no video streaming). The i7 uses a bit more power than the Core i5-6300HQ that is also offered, but not much more since they are both Quad-Cores, the i7 basically just adding Hyper-Threading. (There is also a model with a Core i3-6100H CPU but honestly, I’d get at least the i5). The 4K Infinity Display apparently really drains the battery from what others have said

Overall, after using the laptop for about 5 weeks both as a stationary computer (external displays, keyboard and mouse) and as a portable, I’m highly satisfied with it. Thunderbolt woes aside, it’s insides are up-to-date with a Skylake-CPU, a PCI Express NVMe SSD, a really good IPS display, pretty much the best Wintel touchpad out there and USB-C. Literally the only other Windows laptop I would look at is the XPS 13 in for something a bit smaller. With laptops like these, comparing it to the Macbook Pro is always a hot topic, despite the (as of July 31) MBP’s really outdated hardware. For me, it boiled down to the question if I needed to run Mac OS X, and since I have two Macs already (Late 2010 Mac Pro, 2015 Retina Macbook) the answer was “no”, and thus the Dell XPS 15 won out. So far, I do not regret that decision.


(Note that BitLocker is enabled, which may skew results downward a bit)
(Note that BitLocker is enabled, which may skew results downward a bit)


Blurry Fonts in OS X when scaling external 4K Monitor

I have a 4K Monitor connected to my Mac Pro. However, since 4K on 28″ is a bit too small for my taste, I prefer to make use of OS X’s scaling options and run a 2560×1440 resolution.

As OS X is vector based internally, it is capable of pretending to run in that resolution but still output a native 4K image to my monitor – in other words, the output should be razor sharp and crisp.

However, when I looked at the options (System Preferences > Displays > Scaled), I noticed that all the non-native options were marked as (low resolution) and when selected, text looked blurry.

The trick is to hold down Option (Or “Alt” on non-Mac keyboards) and click scaled – this will unlock additional resolutions, including a 2560×1440 without the (low resolution) suffix that looks as it should be – crisp.

I don’t know why these don’t show up by default – I have a third-party graphics card (Geforce GT 640 from MacVidCards instead of the original, non-4K supporting Radeon 5770) and a third party monitor (Acer B286HK).

Building a NAS with OpenBSD

Over a recent long weekend, I’ve decided to build a small NAS for home use, mainly to have some of my data backed up and to have an archive of old stuff I don’t need all the time. Both of my Laptops have 256 GB SSDs, and while that’s usually enough, it’s good to have some extra headroom sitting around.

The idea was to:

  • Have a place to backup my stuff
  • Have a machine that can do BitTorrent downloads on its own
  • Have a machine that allows my to access big files from multiple other PCs
  • Have a machine that works as a local git server

The Hardware

I bought the motherboard and case a few years ago for something else, so I think better options are available now.

The desired setup:

  • Use the 128 GB SSD as the boot drive – because it’s mSATA it fits directly on the motherboard, and doesn’t take up space for mounting drives
  • Use the two 2.5″ 1 TB drives as a RAID 1 – that way, I’m protected against hard drive failure. Do note that RAID 1 is more an availability than a safety thing because viruses or accidential deletion of files isn’t something a RAID can help with
  • Use the one 3.5″ 3 TB drive as a big store for non-critical stuff, like backups of my Steam games or temporary BitTorrent files

The case doesn’t have much space for drives, even though the motherboard has plenty of S-ATA ports.

For the operating system, I went with OpenBSD 5.7 x64. I prefer OpenBSDs very minimalistic approach of offering a tiny base system, and then allowing me to add exactly the pieces of software that I need. I’m not going to give a full rundown of how OpenBSD works, because if you’re really interested you should definitely read Absolute OpenBSD.

Basic System Setup

Do setup a user during setup – in my case, I called him User.

My 128 GB SSD is partitioned as follows:

#                size           offset  fstype [fsize bsize  cpg]
  a:             2.0G               64  4.2BSD   2048 16384    1 # /
  b:             8.2G          4209024    swap                   # none
  c:           119.2G                0  unused                   
  d:             4.0G         21398592  4.2BSD   2048 16384    1 # /tmp
  e:            15.0G         29800544  4.2BSD   2048 16384    1 # /var
  f:             8.0G         61255840  4.2BSD   2048 16384    1 # /usr
  g:             2.0G         78027680  4.2BSD   2048 16384    1 # /usr/X11R6
  h:            15.0G         82220640  4.2BSD   2048 16384    1 # /usr/local
  i:             3.0G        113675936  4.2BSD   2048 16384    1 # /usr/src
  j:             3.0G        119957344  4.2BSD   2048 16384    1 # /usr/obj
  k:            59.0G        126238752  4.2BSD   2048 16384    1 # /home

The best setup varies on preference of course, in my case I stuck mostly to the OpenBSD defaults and only gave /usr/src and /usr/obj some extra space.

After the system boots up for the first time, add powerdown=YES to /etc/rc.shutdown. This turns off the machine when shutdown -h now is called. Do note that halt doesn’t seem to respect that, and needs to be invoked with halt -p. To my delight, pushing the power button on the case turns off the machine properly – hooray for working ACPI support!

The first thing before installing any software should be to follow -stable, recompiling the kernel, userland, and xenocara.

# cd /usr
# export
# cvs -d$CVSROOT checkout -rOPENBSD_5_7 -P src ports xenocara

# cd /usr/src/sys/arch/amd64/conf
# config GENERIC.MP
# cd ../compile/GENERIC.MP
# make clean && make
# make install
# reboot

# rm -rf /usr/obj/*
# cd /usr/src
# make obj
# cd /usr/src/etc && env DESTDIR=/ make distrib-dirs
# cd /usr/src
# make build
# cd /usr/xenocara
# rm -rf /usr/xobj/*
# make bootstrap
# make obj
# make build
# reboot

This takes a long time, over an hour on this machine. After that, it’s time to do package setup

Add FETCH_PACKAGES=yes to /etc/mk.conf, and export PKG_PATH= begin installing packages.

The OpenBSD packages and ports system is a bit interesting, because it seems that packages are built only once when a new OpenBSD version is released, and then never updated. You have to manually compile newer versions of software. That’s not that big of a deal, because with FETCH_PACKAGES enabled, the system will fetch packages if they are still the correct version and only build ports where needed.

Setting up a data drives, incl. RAID 1

I decided that my data drives should live under /var/netshared, so I created this and two subdirectories – data and glacier. I will set permissions later.

I have 2x 1 TB hard drives, from which I want to build a RAID 1. First, setup disklabels for both drives (disklabel -E sd0, then sd1), making sure that the partition type is RAID instead of the default 4.2BSD.

OpenBSD area: 0-1953525168; size: 931.5G; free: 0.0G
#                size           offset  fstype [fsize bsize  cpg]
  a:           931.5G                0    RAID                   
  c:           931.5G                0  unused

Then, run bioctl -c 1 -l sd0a,sd1a softraid0 to create the RAID. The -c 1 flag sets the RAID level (RAID 1 = mirroring), and -l (lowercase L) is a list of partitions that form the raid. The softraid0 at the end is an internal identifier – it must start with softraid. bioctl will then create a new device that will appear like a hard drive and can be used as such.

The actual device will be something like /dev/sd4. You need to run disklabel on the new device to create a partition, this time of the usual 4.2BSD type. In order to add it to /etc/fstab, you need to get the duid, which you can get by running disklabel sd4:

# /dev/rsd4c:
type: SCSI
disk: SCSI disk
label: SR RAID 1
duid: cc029b4fe2ac54dd

(I do note that using duids in fstab is optional, but I highly recommend it as it makes you independent of device name changes as long as the actual drive is the same)

Remember to run newfs /dev/sd4a to create a file system. OpenBSD will pick FFS for drives smaller than 1 TB, and FFS2 for drives bigger than 1 TB. Check man newfs for options.

Here’s how my fstab looks:

e8bd5e30aba4f036.b none swap sw
e8bd5e30aba4f036.a / ffs rw 1 1
e8bd5e30aba4f036.k /home ffs rw,nodev,nosuid 1 2
e8bd5e30aba4f036.d /tmp ffs rw,nodev,nosuid 1 2
e8bd5e30aba4f036.f /usr ffs rw,nodev 1 2
e8bd5e30aba4f036.g /usr/X11R6 ffs rw,nodev 1 2
e8bd5e30aba4f036.h /usr/local ffs rw,nodev 1 2
e8bd5e30aba4f036.j /usr/obj ffs rw,nodev,nosuid 1 2
e8bd5e30aba4f036.i /usr/src ffs rw,nodev,nosuid 1 2
e8bd5e30aba4f036.e /var ffs rw,nodev,nosuid 1 2
cc029b4fe2ac54dd.a /var/netshared/data ffs rw,nodev,nosuid,noexec,noatime 1 2
f4540651dabd448d.a /var/netshared/glacier ffs rw,nodev,nosuid,noexec,noatime 1 2

Notice the nosuid,noexec,noatime,nodev flags on the two data drives. This is just some precaution against malicious files, and noatime is just to reduce disk wear by a tiny fraction. Check the manpage of mount for more information.

Setting up a user

During OpenBSD Setup, a user should’ve been setup. If you decided not to, use useradd to create one now.

Create a group for access to the shared directories: groupadd netshared

Add the user to that group: user mod -G netshared User

Change owner and permissions:

chown -R User:netshared /var/netshared/* 
chmod -R 0770 /var/netshared/*

Note that the execution-bit is required to traverse directories, so chmod 0660 wouldn’t work as a permission mask. Since the file system is mounted noexec, it doesn’t matter anyways.

Installing Samba

Start by installing the samba port:

# cd /usr/ports/net/samba
# make install

Then, configure samba (thanks Pierre-Philipp Braun for the tip with sed):

cd /etc/samba/
mv smb.conf smb.conf.dist
sed '/^#/d; /^;/d; /^$/d;' smb.conf.dist > smb.conf
vi smb.conf

Here’s my smb.conf:

   workgroup = WORKGROUP
   server string = Samba Server
   security = user
   load printers = no
   log file = /var/log/samba/smbd.%m
   max log size = 50
   dns proxy = no
   printing = BSD
   unix extensions = no
   allow insecure wide links = no
   path = /var/netshared/data
   valid users = User
   writable = yes
   printable = no
   path = /var/netshared/glacier
   valid users = User
   writable = yes
   printable = no

If you want to give access to groups instead of individual users, prefix with an @-sign: valid users = @netshared

The manpage – man smb.conf – is very extensive. If you want to finetune permissions, take the time to browse through it.

To start samba on system startup, add this to /etc/rc.conf.local:


This should be it – start samba through /etc/rc.d/samba start and try accessing your new file shares!

Using the server as a git server

This isn’t really a NAS-specific, but git specific. If you want to install git on the server, cd /usr/ports/devel/git and make install.

Create or clone a bare repository on the NAS:

cd /var/netshared/data
mkdir myrepo.git
cd myrepo.git
git init --bare

Or clone an existing repository as a bare clone:

cd /var/netshared/data
git clone --bare

Then, on your machines, clone from that repository:
git clone \\nas\data\faml.git

This will automatically set up an origin remote on your local clone, so any changes you make on your laptop can be pushed to the server through git push.

Setting up a BitTorrent client

Install the port of transmission:

cd /usr/ports/net/transmission
make install

This will automatically create a _transmission user – add it to the netshared group:
user mod -G netshared _transmission

Create folders for BitTorrent:

mkdir /var/netshared/glacier/BitTorrent
mkdir /var/netshared/glacier/BitTorrent/incomplete
mkdir /var/netshared/glacier/BitTorrent/complete
mkdir /var/netshared/glacier/BitTorrent/watch
chown -R User:netshared /var/netshared/glacier/BitTorrent

Edit the /var/transmission/.config/transmission-daemon/settings.json file (if it doesn’t exist, run /etc/rc.d/transmission-daemon start and then stop it – changes to the file will be lost if you edit it while the daemon is running)
Important settings/changes:

"download-dir": "/var/netshared/glacier/BitTorrent/complete",
"incomplete-dir": "/var/netshared/glacier/BitTorrent/incomplete",
"incomplete-dir-enabled": true,
"rpc-whitelist": ",192.168.1.*",
"rpc-whitelist-enabled": true,
"watch-dir": "/var/netshared/glacier/BitTorrent/watch",
"watch-dir-enabled": true

These settings make it so that any .torrent you drop into the watch directory immediately gets added and started. Downloads go into the incomplete directory while they are downloading, and are then moved to the complete directory afterwards.

rpc-whitelist is a comma-separated list of IPs that can remotely control transmission, so this should be limited to your local network. You can access the web UI on http://nas:9091/transmission/web which is pretty neat.

To auto-start transmission, edit your /etc/rc.conf.local and add transmission_daemon to the pkg_scripts. I recommend starting it before samba, so that samba gets shutdown before transmission. (OpenBSD stops services in the reverse order of startup).

Keeping up to date

Keeping OpenBSD up to date is described in the following -stable link above. Basically, CVS update all of src, ports, xenocara if needed, then recompile and reboot.

To check if your ports are up to date, you can run /usr/ports/infrastructure/bin/out-of-date, then cd into any ports and run make update.
Note that if you’ve installed a package, it’s safe to update it through make update in the ports directory – packages are really just precompiled ports, no “magic”.

Closing Remarks

This was really just a howto of how setup my NAS currently, aimed at people that already know OpenBSD. If you’re curious about a *NIX server and don’t mind spending some time to learn the system. I’m highly pleased with OpenBSD. The system is minimalist – there are not many moving parts by default – and really invites to understand stuff properly.

If you have a more sophisticated NAS setup, you may want to look at FreeNAS as well. Do note that the 8 GB minimum RAM requirement is not a joke – FreeNAS will install and seemingly run on 4 or even 2 GB, but random data loss is almost guaranteed to occur.

The new Macbook (2015)

My local Apple store happened to have a Space Gray Macbook in stock, so I picked it up. I think that a lot has been said already about the new Macbook, but here are some thoughts of mine. I primarily wanted a laptop that is as small and lightweight as possible, and the Macbook fits that. People called it an “iPad running OS X” and mean that in a negative way, but this was essentially what I’m looking for. And it fits that bill – it easily fits into the sleeve of my old Asus eeePC 1000HE and thus also in my little messenger bag. And yet, it runs OS X, which means that I can run iDraw, XCode, do .net Core 5 development (with Visual Studio Code) and a bunch of other development related things I simply cannot do with an iPad. It even runs Logic Pro X and Final Cut Pro X, although of course, performance is limited.

It only has a single USB-C port – this is something you have to carefully think about if you’re interested in buying one, since that is also the charging port. I’ve looked at my stuff, and while I wish there was a second port, I can live very well with the single port. My iPhone tethers wireless, my D-SLR has an Eye-Fi Wireless Card, when I need a mouse or keyboard I use bluetooth, if I need to transfer data I use AirDrop or Dropbox and if I need to back up data, Time Capsule does that wirelessly. Around here, there are enough Apple TVs to allow me to share my screen wirelessly. There are exceptions of course, for example my NanoKORG Controllers required me to buy the $19 USB-C to USB adapter. I do think I’ll return that in favor of the $79 adapter that has USB, HDMI and a USB-C port that allows me to charge the Macbook and use a USB device.

I like the touchpad a lot. It basically fells the same as the old touchpads, and after changing some settings (Scroll direction, right click when tapping the bottom right etc.) I don’t see a difference compared to the previous touchpads. Which of course means that Apple is still the only laptop manufacturer in the entire industry that makes a good touchpad. The keyboard is interesting. There is almost no hub, and yet the keys feel positively clicky. It’s a full size keyboard, and while I only had a few hours to use it so far, I like it.

But as you can see, this is not your primary computer if you do anything that requires power. It lives in an ecosystem and it shines if you have a lot of other Apple products. I can code perfectly fine and do enough stuff with Logic or GarageBand, but if I want hardcore video/audio editing or running a Windows VM with the full Visual Studio, the Macbook isn’t the right system. In fact, the Macbook is inferior to the 11″ Macbook Air in almost every single category – the Air is cheaper, faster, has better connectivity, can drive a 4K monitor, and is the sane choice if you want to do pretty much anything. But the Air only comes in boring 2011-silver-design, cannot compete with the gorgeous screen on the Macbook, is significantly bigger and heavier and has a cooling fan. I still keep my Lenovo E440 as my Windows 7 portable.

To quote Hawkeye: None of this makes any sense.

But I like the Macbook.


Size comparison with the 10" iPad Air
Size comparison with the 10″ iPad Air

My new Lenovo Thinkpad E440

Important Update: In late 2014, Lenovo stared shipping their systems with adware that poses significant security threats to the users. I therefore recommend not buying any Lenovo products. The review will stay up for historical purposes, but my next Laptop won’t be a Lenovo.

It’s been a while since I bought a new Laptop. The last one I blogged about was an ASUS eeePC 1000HE, which is still in use as my sole Windows XP machine for interfacing with my Commodore 64 and to test games on an old Atom and GMA 950 graphics. In 2010, I bought a 13″ MacBook Pro with a 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo which served me well until late 2013 when I wanted something with a higher screen resolution (1280×800 just wasn’t that great for some things) and a more power without sacrificing on battery life, Windows 7 compatibility or the ability to actually do work.

I ended up with a Lenovo ThinkPad E440.

Specs and Delivery

I ordered my E440 on February 24 as a BTO (Build-to-order) for a bit less than $700 including Tax and Shipping. For that money, I got

  • Intel Core i5-4200M CPU (2.5 GHz Dual Core with Hyperthreading)
  • 14.0″ 1600×900 AntiGlare Screen (16:9 Aspect Ratio)
  • Bigger Battery (62WH compared to the stock 48WH)
  • Intel 7260AC Dual Band (2.4/5 GHz) 802.11 ac/a/b/g/n Wireless
  • Windows 7 Professional 64-Bit
  • Intel HD 4600 Graphics
  • 4 GB RAM
  • 500 GB 7200 rpm hard drive and a DVD-R drive

The laptop was delivered on April 1 – that’s 36 days between ordering and delivering. This is rather ridiculous for a business laptop. Lenovo explained they had an unexpected surge of orders that clogged up their manufacturing capacity, but still, that was a bit much.

The Laptop has two memory slots, one which was filled with the 4 GB Memory I ordered and one that was empty. I had a fitting 4 GB Memory still lying around (Kingston KVR16LS11/4), so I upgraded it to 8 GB RAM immediately. I also had a 256 GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD lying around which immediately replaced the 500 GB Hard Drive.

Every Laptop should use SSDs – it makes a massive difference even over 7200 rpm drives, and the lack of a moving part increases the overall resilience. It’s also extremely quiet since pretty much only the CPU draws any real power. The Graphics is an Intel HD 4600 – not the most amazing gaming chip, but it runs Reaper of Souls in 1600×900 perfectly fine, so it’s good enough for my mobile gaming needs.

For reference, the AmazonBasics 14″ Sleeve fits perfectly, although no space for any accessories.

Anti-Theft systems and other security features

The E440 comes with Intel Anti-Theft and Computrace. Now, by virtue of being an Anti-Theft system, the Laptop will continuously send data about its location over the internet and this is enabled by default – not everyone needs it or is comfortable with it. For some in-detail look into Computrace, read this article.

Lenovo allows you to not only Enable/Disable the features, but you can even permanently disable it. They warn you that you can never re-enable it, so I assume its wiping the option ROM. After permanently disabling both Intel AT and Computrace I didn’t see any of the services that Securelist identified running.

The E440 also comes with a TPM Chip, useful for Bitlocker. A Fingerprint reader is an option as well, although I ordered mine without. Both features can be disabled in the BIOS if there’s no need for them.

Finally, UEFI Secure Boot can be toggled, but what’s even more important, you can enter “Setup Mode” which allows you to enter your own keys. This is important if you use non-Windows OS but still want to use Secure Boot.


I can’t really say too much about the preinstalled software. I noticed that it came with stuff already installed on it, but the first thing that I did was reinstall Windows on the new SSD.

Lenovo offers Windows 7 Professional as a BTO Option, which is great since there’s no good successor to it on the market yet but they include neither installation media nor a product key sticker (UPDATE: There is a real Windows 7 Product Key sticker – it sits under the battery). I had a Win7 Professional DVD lying around from another computer and used the free MagicalJellyBean Key Finder to extract the product key from the installation.

When it comes to non-Apple laptops, you should ALWAYS install them from scratch if you want a clean Windows installation without any crap on it, but as said, I haven’t done a thorough investigation on the E440 before I wiped it.

The Screen

Two features sold me immediately: The screen is Anti-Glare, and it’s 1600×900 on 14″. Anti-Glare used to be the default for laptop screens because it makes it better to work with, but with the influx of Entertainment-focused laptops in the late 90’s, the Anti-Glare was omitted, leading to screens that have deeper blacks for games/movies but make it a nightmare to work with.

From what I can see, the screen is a TN Screen, not an IPS. This means color distortion from an angle. The E440 doesn’t distort much when viewing from the side, but doesn’t have a really wide vertical angle. I’m a programmer, so that works perfectly fine for me, but if you’re in need of accurate color representation, don’t get a TN screen.

1600×900 on 14″ is awesome for me. I have enough real estate to have all the stuff open that I want and I can still read it without having to use the utterly broken Windows DPI Scaling feature. Here’s a screenshot, click for full size:

Mouse-replacement – Touchpad and Trackpoint

When it comes to Laptops, there is one major issue: The Touchpad that’s used in lieu of a mouse. Apple’s Macbook touchpad is phenomenal, it’s lightyears ahead of anything the Wintel crowd sells. The problem is that I don’t really like their current lineup of Laptops, and since I don’t use Mac OS X anyway (I run Windows 7 on both my main machine – a Mid 2010 Mac Pro – and on my MacBook Pro before I sold it) I could safely look at all the options on the market.

One of the key reasons to go Lenovo ThinkPad was because of their TrackPoint, a little “joystick” sitting in the middle of the Keyboard (between G, H and B keys) that can be used to move the mouse pointer. It takes a little bit to get used to, but then it’s pretty awesome and precise. The main touchpad is acceptable as well, but the Synaptics TouchPad driver isn’t as good as what Apple offers in Bootcamp. Specifically, scrolling with two fingers has a slight delay before it returns to normal operation and doesn’t work in all apps (e.g., in Steam it doesn’t really emulate a scroll wheel).

The Keyboard

The Keyboard itself is awesome, the chiclet style and size of the keys makes typing straight forward and easy, I didn’t have any issues hitting the right key (and only that key, not some neighboring keys as well). What has really sold me is the fact that there are dedicated PageUp/Down and Home/End/Insert/Delete keys. That actually took me a whole to get right, because after working on a MacBook Pro for a long time, I’m so used to Fn+Up for PageUp or Fn+Left for Home that I needed to retrain myself for this keyboard, but now it’s awesome for programming. The one thing I wasn’t willing to relearn though is the positioning of the Fn and Ctrl keys – Ctrl is the bottom-left key, Fn is to the right of it. Lenovo has acknowledged this and offers a BIOS option to swap Ctrl/Fn to their correct order.

The F-Keys default to their alternative mode, where F1 is “Mute” and F5 is “Brightness Down”. But again, there’s a simple way to change that, Fn+Escape switches it around so that F1 is F1 and Fn+F1 is “Mute”. This setting persists across restarts, which is awesome!

It’s definitely one of the best Laptop Keyboards I worked with.


Lenovo did a spectacular job on the BIOS. It’s a bit sad that this has to be explicitly pointed out, but they allow you to toggle or tweak almost every feature the Laptop offers. I assume that by virtue of being a business laptop, they assume that they are selling to IT System Administrators.

The Laptop isn’t too heavy and has a good battery lifetime with the 62WH battery – I can go through a whole day of working without any issue. I do not know if the 7200 rpm hard drive would draw a noticeable amount of power as I immediately replaced it with an SSD. Despite being made out of plastic, it doesn’t feel cheap, although of course it’s not in the same league as Apple’s unibody.

The touchpad cannot hold a candle to Apple. But when it comes to PC touchpads, it is definitely workable. The Trackpoint stick is a great way to control the mouse pointer as well if you’re used to it. Tap to click works pretty well, although there’s no “tap bottom right corner” to right click (you can set it to “tap with 2 fingers to right click”).

Overall, I’m very pleased with the E440 once it finally showed up on my doorstep. For the money I got almost all the specs that I wanted without having to make compromises, although of course I’m not factoring in the $200 SSD that I still had lying around. But even for the $1000 that it would cost, it’s worth the price for me.

Putting in the SSD and RAM was easy – unscrew three screws at the bottom (with a normal screwdriver, not some special nonsense), unclip the plate the screws are holding, voila, HDD and RAM is right there. This is how PC Laptops are done since forever, and this is something I missed on my MacBook Pro where changing the Hard Drive was a loathsome operation. Also, the battery is a removable part, as it should be.

I like it. A lot.